Sarah from the Back Track team got home from Vietnam a couple of weeks ago, and we’ve barely let her unpack. She spent close to a month there, pairing Intrepid’s Premium Vietnam small-group tour with Pandaw’s Halong Bay and Red River cruise, a 10-night river expedition that heads well past the places most visitors see.
We sat her down with a cup of tea and asked the questions you’d probably ask yourself. What was the cruise really like, and how did she manage with a tricky diet?
What trip did you do?
I did two trips back to back. The first was Intrepid’s Premium Vietnam, an eight-day small-group tour that starts in Hanoi and finishes in Ho Chi Minh City. Groups max out at 12 people, which made a real difference. We spent a night on a boat in Halong Bay, had time in Hoi An’s old town and visited the Cu Chi Tunnels with a war veteran, who talked us through what life underground was actually like during the war. That visit has stayed with me.
The second was Pandaw’s Halong Bay and Red River expedition, which runs for 10 nights between Halong Bay and Viet Tri, northwest of Hanoi. If you haven’t come across Pandaw before, they’re a river cruise company known for small colonial-style ships, all polished teak and brass, on rivers right across Asia including the Mekong, the Irrawaddy, the Ganges and the Brahmaputra.
Their Vietnam itinerary is a proper river expedition. Pandaw are upfront that the schedule can shift with local conditions, and honestly that’s part of the appeal. You’re travelling on stretches of river where no other tourist boats operate.
Where did you go?
I flew in and out of Hanoi via Guangzhou with China Southern. They aren’t keen on serving alcohol, so if you like a glass of wine to help you settle on a long flight, pack some patience. What little I saw of Guangzhou on the stopover was very pretty, and I’d happily go back for another look.
With Intrepid we covered Hanoi, Halong Bay, Hoi An and Ho Chi Minh City. The Pandaw cruise started in Hanoi, and from there we sailed upriver to Viet Tri before making our way back down through the Red River delta to Halong Bay. It was such a lovely way to see the Red River and northern Vietnam, well away from the usual tourist traffic. Along the way we visited temples dating back as far as the 11th century, watched Non La conical hats being made, saw a private water puppet show in Thanh Ha, the village where water puppetry is said to have started, and stopped at Bat Trang, a ceramics village that has been making pottery for generations. We finished with two nights in Halong Bay and Lan Ha Bay, which was the perfect way to wind down.
Yes, that meant seeing Halong Bay twice, and I don’t regret it at all. One night on a boat and several days on Pandaw feel like two very different trips.
Every hotel we stayed in was amazing. The Pandaw cruise, though, was next level.
When did you go, and how was the weather?
Late August through to late September. It was hot, really hot, but fairly dry, which suited me for all the walking and village visits. We did experience a couple of downpours, all it did was make the day more entertaining. It was so warm the shower was a relief. Light clothes, a good hat and plenty of water and sunscreen and you’ll be fine.
A note from the Back Track team: September falls at the tail end of northern Vietnam’s wet season and inside typhoon season, so Sarah’s mostly dry run was on the lucky side. Central Vietnam, around Hoi An, usually gets its heaviest rain later in the year, from around October. If you’re looking at these months, build a little flexibility into your plans and talk to us about timing.
What surprised you the most?
The diversity of the villages, without a doubt. Each one felt different, with its own crafts and its own way of doing things, and some of the communities along the river rarely see tourists at all. In a few places we were treated like rockstars. People would stop what they were doing just to wave and come over to say hello.
On the flip side, I was surprised by how much rubbish there is along the riverbanks. It’s confronting, and I think it’s worth knowing before you go.
And yes, I saw barbecued dog being sold as street food. You won’t see it everywhere, but it’s out there, so be prepared.
What was the food like? What was the best thing you ate?
For me, food was a little tricky. I don’t eat pork and I don’t eat gluten, and the pork was by far the harder of the two. So much Vietnamese cooking starts with a pork broth, which means a soup made with pork stock and chicken pieces counts as chicken soup. It took a while to get across that no pork means no pork at all, stock included.
Gluten was easier, because so much of the food is built on rice noodles and rice paper. Soy sauce is the one to watch.
My favourite dish was a prawn and pomelo salad. Zingy and fresh, with that sweet and sour balance Vietnamese cooks do so well. I’d go back just for that.
If you have dietary needs, my tip is to get a card written in Vietnamese that spells out exactly what you can’t eat, including broths and sauces, and hand it over every time you order.
Vietnamese beer is good and so cheap!
Who would this trip be ideal for?
Anyone who can rough it a little. I don’t mean the accommodation, because the hotels and the ship were very comfortable. I mean the heat, the long days, uneven paths through the villages and being relaxed about plans changing on a river expedition. If you’re curious and you go with the flow, you’ll get so much out of it.
What did you like most about the Halong Bay and Red River cruise?
The Pandaw cruise was wonderful. The crew looked after us beautifully and the pace was just right after the busier days with Intrepid.
If I had to pick one moment, it was swimming off a private beach in Halong Bay with a cocktail in hand. Limestone islands all around us and nobody else in sight. That’s the one I keep coming back to.
Anything else we should know?
Go and see Train Street in Hanoi. Yes, it’s super touristy, but it’s still pretty cool. You sit at a tiny café right beside the tracks, and then a train squeezes past close enough to make you pull your knees in. Access has changed a few times over the years, so check with your guide or hotel on the day. One thing to note is the government are wanting to shut down train street because people have been careless and injuries have occurred. Tour guides are not allowed to take people to train street so don’t be offended if your tour or guide does not include this. They can show you where it is but are not permitted to accompany you.
Planning your own Vietnam trip?
Trips like Sarah’s are a big part of how we work. When someone from Back Track comes home, the whole office hears about it. Sarah had plenty to share about the hotels and the Pandaw ship, and about what it’s really like to travel Vietnam in September on a pork-free, gluten-free diet. That first-hand detail goes straight into the advice our consultants give you, so every traveller benefits from the miles our team has covered.
If you’re weighing up a small-group tour or a river expedition like Sarah’s, our consultants can help you work out the timing and how the pieces fit together, including any dietary needs along the way. We’ve been doing this since 1984, and we still travel to see these places for ourselves. Get in touch with our team to start planning your Vietnam trip.
