For seasoned travellers John and Jean Kelley, exploring the Arctic aboard two back-to-back expedition cruises offered an extraordinary dive into one of the world’s most remote regions. Sailing on Aurora Expeditions’ MV Sylvia Earle, they joined the Svalbard in Depth followed by Jewels of the Arctic cruises, journeying across ice-choked waters, volcanic islands and remote fjords.
Their experience, described as one of the best cruises they’ve ever done, brings to life the magic and unpredictability of polar travel: from polar bear sightings to surreal silence in the pack ice.
Life on Board the MV Sylvia Earle
The Kelleys praised the ship for its innovative X-Bow design, noting how stable and comfortable it felt during crossings. With just 68 passengers on the first leg and 110 on the second, the experience remained intimate and uncrowded.
While they felt the cabin layout could be improved for two people moving around, they appreciated the balcony for quick access to fresh air and spontaneous photography. The meals onboard exceeded expectations, with plenty of options and fallback favourites always available. Staff were described as exceptional, and zodiac landings ran like clockwork, a crucial factor when navigating remote polar landscapes.
Svalbard: The Arctic’s Crown Jewel
For John, Svalbard stole the show. With two full cruises spent exploring the region, they saw the archipelago under a variety of weather conditions and from multiple angles.
Despite a day and a half of heavy fog, they had what can only be described as phenomenal luck. “We saw about 20 polar bears,” John said, “but it wasn’t just the number, it was the behaviour. We watched them hunting, feeding, interacting with walrus and even approaching the ship.”
Other unforgettable sightings included thousands of harp seals gathered on the polar pack ice, a rare occurrence, even for the seasoned expedition team. Arctic foxes, reindeer, walrus and puffins made regular appearances, while massive bird cliffs swarmed with guillemots and auks.
The constantly shifting ice, combined with long Arctic days where the sun never set, created an ethereal atmosphere. Svalbard’s combination of rugged glaciers, wildlife encounters and moments of total silence was, as John put it, “as beautiful as anything I’ve seen on the Antarctic Peninsula.”
Exploring Jan Mayen
A lucky landing on Jan Mayen, a remote volcanic island south of Svalbard, gave them a glimpse into its dramatic scenery. With glaciers, driftwood-covered shores and views of the still-active Beerenberg volcano, the stop added variety to the trip. Though it wasn’t the most exciting destination, the voyage there was smooth and added to the sense of remote exploration.
Greenland’s Wild East
Crossing west from Jan Mayen to Greenland, the Kelleys encountered thick ice flows and the world’s largest fjord system: Scoresby Sound. Accessing it involved some risk. If the wind turned, they could have been blocked in by sea ice, but the rewards were spectacular.
Zodiac landings brought them close to Arctic hares and musk oxen, while iceberg-filled fjords and colourful tundra dotted with flowers added a softer beauty to the landscape. One memorable moment involved walking on an ice floe, dropped off by Zodiac in the middle of the pack ice, a surreal, once-in-a-lifetime experience.
A Glimpse of Greenlandic Life
A stop at the remote settlement of Ittoqqortoormiit stood out as a cultural highlight. John and Jean visited a local family’s home, where they were welcomed with hospitality and given a glimpse into daily life. Narwhal tusks, polar bear-claw jewellery and walrus skulls sat beside modern appliances and a TV. A full-size soccer pitch of bright green artificial turf on the rocky tundra added a surprising touch of contrast.
The visit also revealed the challenges of life in remote Greenland. A talk by a Danish police officer highlighted some of the social issues, offering a realistic picture that deepened their appreciation for the resilience of local communities.
An Unexpected Stop in Iceland
Due to ice conditions in Greenland, the ship arrived in Iceland with time to spare, allowing passengers to enjoy bonus whale watching in a remote fjord before disembarking in Reykjavik. John and Jean continued with a land tour, noting Iceland’s stunning landscapes and steep prices.
From glacier lagoons and black sand beaches to museums and mud pools, Iceland offered dramatic scenery and unique experiences. While John found the tourist crowds and costs overwhelming at times, he still counted the highlights, like puffin cliffs and volcanic formations, as unforgettable.
Final Thoughts: Polar Travel is a Game of Patience and Luck
John and Jean’s trip highlights the magic of the Arctic, but also its unpredictability. Weather, wildlife and sea ice shape every itinerary. As John noted, “In Antarctica, you’re pretty much guaranteed penguins. In the Arctic, the wildlife is more hit and miss. But if you’re lucky, the rewards are enormous.”
Their advice to future travellers? Expect the unexpected, be flexible, and trust your expedition team. These voyages aren’t sightseeing from a deck chair. They’re about adventure, discovery, and moments that stay with you long after the trip ends.
If you’re considering a polar journey, the Arctic offers something raw, rare and utterly humbling. With trusted partners like Aurora Expeditions and deep destination knowledge from the team at Back Track, you’ll be in good hands as you head to the top of the world.
